I LOVE online fabric stores! They are a great boost for those of us who love to sew especially since on-the-ground fabrics stores have shrunk! As a fashion designer and an educator of fashion students (at Harper College, Illinois) I find most of my students research fabrics from online stores. It’s essential to get a sample swatch first before purchasing, to not only look at the color, but also to observe the surface, texture, weight and drape of the fabric. Since the fabric is the key to all decisions that need to be made about the design, it’s important to do this research first.
I like what Donna Karen advises about fabrics, “It’s all about the fabric. I shouldn’t be telling people this, because I know how it sounds, but it’s as if the fabric talks to me. As I start playing with it, it begins to dictate how it wants to fall and move against the body, that’s when everything just comes alive and all my creative juices start to flow1.
Listening to the fabric talk begins by identifying the fiber content and the fabrics characteristics (quality, durability, appearance, comfort, performance and fabric care). This information helps you to know if the fabric is suitable for the design you have in mind and function of the garment. (For example, swimwear fabric MUST have Lycra or spandex fibers, stretch in both directions for movement and comfort, and quick to dry). Next take notice of the fabric surface as some fabrics have a nap or a one-way pattern or a stripe—let this also direct your design.
Most importantly do what Donna Karen advises, and that is to assess the fabric weight. Feel the fabric to ascertain if it’s light, medium or heavy weight. Next drape the fabric on your body or on a dress form to observe how the fabric falls. If the fabric falls into soft folds then let this direct your design. If the fabric is more structured and doesn’t drape nicely then let this direct your design.
Quality stitching is yet another big part of successful design as the quality of stitching impacts on the final look of your garment. The stitching techniques you choose—seams and finishes, including needle type and thread—need to suit the fabric type. The fabric and stitching techniques need to integrate together.
Recently I spotted a Missoni knit fabric on FabricDivas.com on-line store. I was SO excited as you don’t often find Missoni knits. Oh how I LOVE them! After receiving my fabric swatch, I observed that the fabric was a medium-weight 100% textured wool knit. I eagerly purchased my fabric and “listening to my fabric talk” my gut told me to choose a simple design to let the zig-zag fabric texture speak for itself.
Take a look at the sketch to see my Missoni skirt with the natural scallop edge of the fabric as the hemline. The invisible elastic waist finish is stitched to a light-weight interlock knit lining for added warmth and to provide a quality finish to my skirt. Earlier this year I stunned my family and friends by wearing the skirt with a sweater (METALICUS brand—I love this Aussie label) and jacket. The jacket is made from a double knit which I fully underlined with a stabilizer to add structure. The result is a late 19th century-inspired jacket that is very versatile—I can dress-it-up and wear it with my Missoni skirt or dress-it-down and wear the jacket casually with jeans.
1 ‘Instyle” article (November 2008)
